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PEN, the international writers organization with 15,000 members in 130 centers worldwide, was banned in the former Soviet Union. In 2000 it was finally able to hold its World Congress in Moscow. Highlights include Nobel Prizewinner Gunter Grass' opening address, and an interview with Alexandre Nikitin, former Russian Navy Nuclear expert imprisoned for revealing the scuttling of 110 obsolete nuclear powered submarines in the barents Sea.