 Cinque Terre 2
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August 13, 2008
MANAROLA, Riomaggiore, Porotvenere From the Manarola train station there is a short, pedestrian tunnel that goes under the tracks, and in a few minutes you will walk through town to the beautiful, azure shores of the Mediterranean. Manarola spills down the hill to the waterfront, its houses packed solidly together in the typical pattern of the region, with terraced hillsides for the grapes up above. They don t have a beach but there is a boat ramp carved into the stone, the most popular spot around for it functions like a beach, packed with sunbathers. The ramp leads to a cove with good swimming, further protected by a stone jetty. It s comfortable here -- not a sandy beach or Olympic-size pool but it is sheltered water and makes a great spot to gather, producing a mix of locals and some tourists; passers-by and people who are just spending an hour or so in Manarola and then moving along. There s no room to put the boats in the water so they are stored up on dry land, on a ramp and along the main street as well. The villagers have covered the stream over, so you don t see it in the middle of town, thereby creating an uninterrupted pedestrian zone. There are quite a few local residents who like to hang out, sit on the bench, chat with their friends and do some people-watching. And the numerous cats also have that same laid-back attitude. In the afternoons most of the shops close by 1:00pm for siesta and then re-open at 3:00 or 4:00pm. Some of the tourist shops selling postcards will stay open, but the other stores in the little side streets are going to be closed. So it is a good time to have lunch. You could pick up picnic supplies or sit in one of the many terrace restaurants here. It s a small place but there is a nice selection of pizzerias and take-out food or of course, the ever-present pasta. RIOMAGGIORE The path from Manarola to Riomaggiore is the easy one with a level, paved surface called lovers lane, taking just 20 minutes to walk with nice coastal views along the way. Or you could take a little boat ride. Regular ferry service connects each of the villages, and from Manarola it is just a 10-minute cruise to Riomaggiore, the last of the five. It s a nice ride with splendid views of the coastal cliffs and hills above, and the blue sea all around. Enchanting, charming Riomaggiore is the grand climax to our survey of Cinque Terre. Here too you see that familiar pattern -- the houses tumbling down the cliffs to the water s edge and a main pedestrian street rising up from the tiny cove, surrounded by terraced homes covering the hillside. It s a surprising mix of urban high density in the midst of a tranquil, rural setting. It is very quiet when you walk down the little side streets, especially in the off-season, which is recommended. PORTOVENERE Now it s time to leave Cinque Terre and continue a few miles further south for a bonus -- Portovenere, yet another cute seaside village you do not want to miss! The only practical way to get to Portovenere from Cinque Terre is by boat, since there is no train service and the hiking trail from Riomaggiore is seven miles long. The ferry arrives at an ultra-picturesque little harbor, dotted with small craft at anchor and framed by a picturesque row of pastel-colored facades lining the waterfront. Portovenere had been a fortress back in the old days, as were all of these towns, but here you can still see the fort up on the hill and a sizeable medieval wall that comes down the slope with guard towers to protect it. That row of waterfront houses also functioned as part of the wall that encircled this fortified compound to protect its inhabitants from rampaging Saracens, pirates and various other invaders from over the years. There is small sandy beach in the town center facing the fishing fleet that brings in the daily catch to supply all the restaurants along the ocean-front promenade. People prefer to sunbathe on the rocks rather than the beach for some reason, making themselves comfortable sprawling by the water s edge, soaking up that Mediterranean sun. Of course, just strolling about is one of the main activities. There is no need for strenuous hiking here, but certainly, a short walk through the village is most enjoyable. Leaving the south end of the waterfront, you stride through a large stone gate in the wall of this fortified, medieval town and enter a small network of narrow, curved lanes that make you wonder what s around the bend, luring you deeper to discover what s next. We happened upon two young girls drawing ballpoint tattoos on each other and a dozen cats perched, Italian style, on two scooters waiting for their lunch to be served. Oh, the foods here! Seafood, of course, is the main dish to enjoy in this little harbor village, where you can pick from a row of outdoor restaurants with dining terraces overlooking the marina, filled with fishing boats that just supplied your dinner. Or, you could just get take-out foods if you d rather have a picnic at one of the nearby scenic spots along the shore. Visit one of the aromatic food shops featuring a wide variety of locally-grown olives, hunks of cheese, pizza, focaccia, fresh breads, fruits, and bottles of local wine found nowhere else, to create a meal that celebrates your memorable visit. When finished with Portovenere, there is a direct boat back to Manarola, one hour away. On board you could mingle a bit with locals and other tourists, most of whom are Europeans, usually Italians or Germans out for a day s hiking adventure. Interacting with these other tourists is part of the fun as you cruise past all the villages you have just explored, providing a scenic, relaxing recap of your journey.
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